Fitting canvas for fur garments or the like



Oct. 28, 1952 FESSLER 2,615,250

FITTING CANVAS FOR FUR GARMENTS OR THE LIKE Filed' 'Dec. 3o, 1949 I 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 mmvrox. 5/ ABE FESSLER Ogt. 28, 1952 A. FESSLER 2,615,250

7 FITTING CANVAS FOR FUR GARMENTS OR THE LIKE Filed Dec. 30, 1949 3 Sheet s-Sheet 2 INVENTOR. ABE FEssLER arr/751x15 Get. 28, 1952 A F L 2,615,250

FITTING CANVAS FOR FUR GARMENTS OR THE LIKE Filed Dec. 50, 1949 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 INVENTOR. ABE FEssLER Patented Oct. 28, 1952 UNITED STATES \FI-T'TING 'cANvAs FOR FUR ilnu uisiv'rs on THE 1.1 m

Abe Fe s s ler, Maplewood. N. J H isp'ucnssnecssba so, 1949, S erial N0. 13 5,961 6 Claims. (01. 33-15) This invention relates to new and useful improvements in fitting coats. y I Y canvas material in accordance with the measure- -ments and fit the dummy coat on the woman.

The actual fur coat was then constructed in accordance with the correctly dimensioned canvas fitted coat. -In that manner theexpensive fur pelts were not cut or formed into a coat until the exact configuration of the coat had been determined lessening-the possibility of spoiling the expensive pelts. However; that method has proven objectionable because the canvas dummy coat can only be used once and is then discarded with a resulting increase in the cost of the completed fur coat. l q

The present invention proposes to overcome the objection of the prior method of sizing persons ;for fur coats by providin fitting coats in certain standard sizes and which are adjustable in the shoulders and in girth to .meet the requirements ofa particular womans size and which are adjustable as to style bythe addition of auxiliary I sleeves and collars to meet the customers style requirements and which after being adjusted as to size and style may then be used to, construct the desired fur, coat and which can be reused any number of .times by varying its size and style to meet the requirements of each individual customer. l p An object of the present invention is to construct afitting coat having a back section and a pair, of like but opposed front sections with slide fasteners joining the back and front sections at their adjacent vertical edges in a manner to be opened and adjusted for varying the girth of the coat in accordance with the customers requirements.

Another object of the present invention proposes ,formingthe fitting coat with shoulders which. are openable to .be adjusted to the particular inclination or slopeof the shoulders of the woman. upon whichthe coat is being fitted.

\ .Stillanother. object of. the present invention proposes forming the front sections of the coat,

the costly pelts from which the fur at the neck opening; with forwardly bent revers upon which a collar is removably mounted in a manner tobe removed and replaced by collars of diflferent styles. h H g The invention further proposes providing the fitting coat with integral straightsleeves over whichauxiliary sleeves of different styles can be slipped together with means for removably retainingjthe auxiliary sleeves in position so that their appearance with a collar of a given style can be determined. v w w A still furtherv objectof the present invention proposes the construction of av fittin Coat which is completelyv adjustable as to size andstyle without resorting to cutting and which, therefore, can

be used over and over again. I

It is another object of the present invention to v construct a fitting coat which once it' has been adjusted as to size and style can be utilized by the furrier or fur designer to transform the particular measurements and style requirements to a paper pattern in a manner to be used for cutting coat is to be made., Forfurther comprehension of the invention, and of the objects and advantages; thereof, reference will be had to the following description and ,accompanyingdrawings, and to the. app nded claimsin. which thevarious novel features of the im entionv are more particularly setforth. In the accompanying drawings forming a material part of the present disclosure: Fig.1 is a front elevational view of. the .fittin coat constructed in accordance with the present invention, but with no collar attached.

Fig.. 2 is a side elevational View of Fig. l, but with the side opening partially open.

Fig. 3 is a vertical sectional view taken on line3.-3 of .Fig. 1.

Fig. 4- is a side elevational view portion of Fig. 2, but with the sleeve shown in a the raised position and with the side opening completely open.

Fig. 5 is an enlarged detailed view of the shoulder portion of Fig. 2. y Fig. 6 is a plan view of Fig. 5, but with the shoulder in its completelyopen position.

- Fig. 7 is an enlarged partial horizontal sectional view taken on the line 11 of Fig. 5... l Fig. 8 is an enlarged partial vertical sectional View taken on the line 8-8 of Fig. 3.

Fig. 9 is a partial vertical sectional view take on the line 9 9 of Fig. 6. a I

Fig. 10 is a plan view of the shoulder section similar to a with the shoulder pad attached thereto and prior to mounting in the fitting coat.

Fig. 11 is an enlarged partial horizontal sectional view taken on the line I l| I of Fig. 3.

Fig. 12 is a sectional view of the dummy pocket taken on the line l2|2 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 13 is a front elevational view of the fitting coat similar to Fig. 1, but with a collar mounted in position and with an auxiliary sleeve in position over the regular sleeve.

Fig. 14 is an enlarged sectional view taken through the collar on the line I4l4 of Fig. 13.

Fig. 15 is a bottom plan view of the collar shown applied to the coat in Fig. 13.

Fig. 16 is a bottom plan View of another style collar which can be used with the coat. I

Fig. 17 is a perspective view of the auxiliary sleeve shown mounted in position on the coat in I Fig. 13.

Fig. 18 is a plan view of Fig. 17. Fig. 19 is an enlarged partial sectional view taken on the line l9l 9 of Fig. 17.

. Fig. 20 is a perspective view similar to Fig. 17,

but illustrating another type of sleeve which can be used with the fitting coat. The fitting coat, according to the present invention, includes a back section 33 and a pair of like butopposed front sections 3E. The sections 39 and 3l'of the coat are formed of the usual canvas material employed by jfurriers and fur designers for obtaining the measurements of a person for whom a custom fur coat is to be made. In securing together-the sections and 3i of the garmerit, the usual arm holes are left in the top of .the garment and straight sleeves 32 are secured (as will be explained hereinafter) in position in those arm holes.

noted that the sleeves 32 carry no cuffs or other From Figs. 1 and 2 it will be decorative materials and that the free edges thereof are-bent under and secured in position by'stitches 33.

Theadjacent vertical'slide edges of the back section '39 and the front sections 3! are releasably joined together by slide fasteners 34 having the usual tapes 35 secured to the edges of the. sections 30 and 3! by lines of stitches 36, see Figs. 2, 4 and 11. If the fitting coat, as made, properly fits the person being fitted, the sections 30 and clearly illustrated in Fig. 11, each gussets? is secured in position only along one vertical edge thereof and the free edges of the gussets are projected across the back of the slide fasteners 34 and the inner faces of the back section 36.

That is the. normal position of the gussets 37 when the sectionsflfl and 3| are joined together by the slide fasteners 34%. However, when it is "necessaryto adjust the girth of the fitting coat either inward or outward, it is-merely necessary to completely open the slid'efasteners 3 as shown in Fig. 4, and then by means of pin 38, as illustrated inFig. 3, the free edges of thegussets 3? are secured to the vertical side edges of the back section 39in accordancewith the size requirements of the particular woman being sized. It

- will e-appreciated that extending the slide fasteners 34 partially into thesleevesBZ, as shown .inFig. 4, permits girth adjustments to be more 4 smoothly made to the body of the coat without interference from the sleeves 32 at their points of attachment to the sections 3% and 3!.

The adjacent edges of the back section 30 and the front sections 3i at the shoulders, between the neck opening and the arm holes, are releasably connected together by slide fasteners 39, see particularly Figs. 5 and 6. The slide fasteners 39 have the usual tapes 58 secured to the edges of the shoulder portions of the sections 39- and M by lines of stitches ll. The slide fasteners 39 are preferably of the non-separable type and to provide greater movement of the shoulder portions of the sections 30 and SI, in the open condesired, the shoulder portions of the sections 35 and 3! could be joined together by the separable type slide fasteners permitting the shoulders of the sections to be completely separated in the open condition of the slide fasteners.

Positioned beneath each of the shoulder portions ofthe fitting coat there is a substantially triangularly shaped shoulder section 52. The shoulder sections 42 are made of the same'material used for making the sections 3.0 and 3| of the coat and to give the sections 42 greater shape they are preferably formed of opposed like half sections stitched together along a line 43 located centrally beneath the slide fasteners 39, see Figs. 6 and 10. The apexes of the triangularly shaped shoulder sections 42 are directed inward with the bases thereof directed outward. The corners of the shoulder sections lZ, adjacent the bases thereof, are secured to the inside faces of the back'section 30 and the front sections 3! by lines of stitches 44, see particularly Fig. 8.

Mounted on the bottom face of each of the shoulder sections 42, there is a shoulder pad 45. The shoulder pads #5 are secured in position by a substantially arcuate line of stitches so that the outer edge portions of the pads project slightly beyond'the free outer edges of the shoulder sections d2, as shown in Fig. 10, and into the top portions of the sleeves 32, as shown in Fig. 9, for shaping and lifting the top portions of the sleeves. The shoulder pads QB-are of conventional construction and further constructional details of the pads will not be given in the present specification as such details form no part of the present invention. v

In addition to the slide fasteners 39 which releasably secure together the edge portions of the shoulder portions of the sections 30 and 3 l means is provided for releasably securing those shoulder portions to the shoulder section 42. That releasable securingmeans is characterized by a pair of downwardly and outwardly inclined tapes ll secured to the top face of each of the shoulder sections 42 on opposite sides of the shoulder pads d5 by means of stitches it. Mounted in spaced positions along the lengths of the tapes 41 there is a plurality of socket-type fastener elements 59. Secured to the inner faces ofthe shoulder portions of the sections 38 and 3!, there are similar tapes 50 matching the downward and outward'inclination of the tapes 4?. .The tapes 50 aresecured to theshoulderporitionsj of the vooatsections 30' and 3] by linesof'stit'ch'es 5|. Mounted on the tapes 50 there are the compleaeisjto mentary post-type, fasi zenerv elements 52 which areengageable. with the socket-type fastener elements 49. of. the, tape 41. Thus, when the fas- ,Returning againto the sleeves 32,. .it will be apparent that the bottom edge portions of the material defining the arm hole of each sleeve, on. opposite sides of the slide fastener 34, are

secured to thecorresponding edge portionsof. the .coat sections.36 and 3|..b'y lines of stitches 53,

see Figs. 3 and 8. Thus, the sleeves areattached .to the sections. 36 .and 3| from one attached corner ofthe shoulder section. 42 to its other .attached corner except for the interruption by .tachedcorners of the shoulder section 42, are

free of any connection with the sleeves 32. Thus, when the slide fastener39 is completely opened and the fastener elements 49 and 52 are disengaged, the shoulderportions of the sections 36 and 3| can be folded outward, as shown in Fig. 6, freeing the shoulder section 42 and the attached shoulder pad 45 to be adjusted. In the normal size for which the coat is made, the fastener elements 49 and 52 will be engaged and the slide fastener will be closed. However, if it is necessary to adjustthe position of the shoulders of the garment to suit the needs of a particular customer, both the slide fastener 39 and the fastener elements 49 and 52 are disengaged so that the shoulder portions of the sections 36 and 3| will be free to be adjusted as required and then" be secured in their adjusted positions .to the shoulder section 42 by the conventional straight pins. This adjustment is not interfered with by the stitches 44 as the lifting of the free portions of the shoulder portions of the sections 30 and 3| to, the desired adjusted position will similarly v lift the stitches 44 and cause an upward bending of the shoulder sections 42 along substantially horizontally extended lines above the lines of stitches 44. p v H I Secured to the inner top corners of the. front sections 3| of the fitting coat, there is a lining layer 55,,see particularlyFig. 14. The lining layer 55 permits the inner top corners of the front sections 3| to be folded outward to form revers 56 to which a collar 51 can be 'removably attached, as shown in Fig. 13. Means is provided for releasably attaching the collars 51 to the revers 56 so that the collars can be removed and replaced by a different collar of a different design; for instance the collar 51' shown in Fig. 16. The collar 51 of Figs. 13 and 15 and the collar 51' of Fig. 16 are the same except for differences in design. The releasable attaching means for the collars comprises a single snap fastener element 58 secured to the inside faces of each of the sections 3| at substantially the bottom ends of the revers 56. A pair of like snap fastener elements 59 are mounted on the revers 56 at the top ends thereof, see particularly Fig. 1. Mounted on the back face of the collar 51 and the collar 51' there are complementary snap fastener elements 66 Which engage the snap fastener elements 58 and 59 and releasably retain the respective collar 51 or 51' in position. Only two styles of collars have been illustrated which has a narrow wristlet 62', which may be interchangeably used with the sleeve 6|.

Means is provided for releasably attaching the sleeves 6| or 6| in position over the sleeves 32. That attaching means comprises a narrow projecting strip 63 which extends from the top of each of the sleeves 6| or 6|. The strip is arranged to be inserted betweenthe adjacent faces of the shoulder section 42 and the shoulder portions of the coat sections 30 and 3|. Each strip 63 carries a spaced pair of post-type snap fastenerielements 64, see. particularly Figs. l8 and 19, which are releasably engageable with a spaced pair of complementary socket-type fastener elements 65 mounted on the shoulder sections 42, see Figs. 6 and 9. The construction issuch'that a pair of like auxiliary sleevesof a design di ferent from the sleeves 32, may be mounted 'm'position over the sleeves 32 or auxiliary sleeves of different designs may be engagedover each of the sleeves 32permitting a comparison to be made and the desired sleeve style to be selected. The front sections 3| of the coat are provided with dummy pockets 66 for completing the appearance of the fitting coat. On the drawing, the pockets 66 are illustrated as being of the slash or military type, but such showing is merely illustrative and any other type'of pocket maybe provided. Details of the formation of the'dummy pocket 66 are illustrated in FigQ-12. The pockets 66'are formed by providing the front sections 3| of the fitting coat with downwardly -and outwardly inclined I-shaped cuts with themater'ial 61 onone side of the cut'be'in folded'backw'ard and secured to another piece 'of material 68 Zby stitches 69. Likewise, the material 10 of .the front section on the other side of the I'-shaped cut is doubled back upon itself ands'ecured'to' another strip of material 1| by a line of stitches 12. The adjacent topand bottom edges of the strips of material 68 and 1| are preferably secured together by lines of stitches not shown- The manner of using the fitting coat of the present invention is as followsf The custom furrier "or furdesigne r stocksa supply of the fitting coats, preferably at least one in each general size classification. Thus, a customer to befitted for a custom fur coat dons one of the fitting coats which, in general, is her size. However, as extremely few women conform rigidly to one size throughouttheir configuration the girth and the shoulder height of the donned fitting coat can be adjusted as previously indicated to met the requirements of the customer being sized.

Moreover, while the basic line or style of a particular fur coat may be suitable to a great majority of women, each desires a particular collar style and a particular sleeve. style which she feels is particularly appealing toher The inthe appended claims. 1

7 tern which can then be used for cutting the costly pelts from which the finalcoat is to be made withoutdanger of spoiling a'ny of the furs.-'-

-While the features of the present invention have been shown-applied to a loose fittingf'or box coat, will be appreciated that "such shows ing is by way of illustration only andthat those features are equally well adapted for use in a fitted-coat or any other type of coatW-ithout-departing from the scope of the present-invention.

While I have illustratedand described the preferred embodiment of my -invention,.it is to be understood thatI do not nmamysemo the precise construction herein disclosed and thea-right' is reserved. to'all changes and modifications 'coming within the'scope'of the invention as 'defined in Having thusde'scribed my invention, What I claim as new and desireto secure byUnited States Letters Patent isE- 1 l; f 1 1. In a fitting coat'havinga back'section and a pair of like but opposed front sections with adjacent side edgesandadjacent'shoulder portions having adjacent top edges, said side-edges and said top edges being extended in opposite directions from armhole openings formed in said'back section and said front sections fasteners releasably securing together the adjacent top edges-of the sections; a triangularly shaped shoulder section positioned within each of said shoulder portions of the-coat with their base sides facing out- Ward and flush with the edges of said-1 sections defining the upper halves of said armhole openings, said shoulder sections having the ends of their base sides located at diametrically opposite sides of the armhole openings on a line extended horizontally acros the center of said armhole openings and spaced equally on opposite sides of said fasteners, stitches securing the ends of the base sides of said shoulder sections to the inner faces of the back and front sections, fasteners releasably securin together the adjacent faces of said shoulder sections and the shoulder portions of the front and back sections on opposite sides of said first-mentioned fasteners, sleeves having top openings conforming in, size to the size of the armhole openings; stitches securing the lower halves of the material of said sleeves defining their top openings to the material of the front and back sectionsdefining their armhole openings below the level where said first-mentioned stitches secure the'ends of the base sides of ,said shoulder sectionsto the front and back sections, and stitches securing the upper halvesof the material of said sleeves defining'their topopenings to the base sides of said shoulder sections,

2. In a fitting coat having a back section and a pair of like but opposed front sections with adjacent side edges and adjacent shoulder portions having adjacent top edges, said side edges and said top edges being extended in opposite directions from-armhole openings formed in said back section and said front sections, fasteners releasably securing together the adjacent'top edges of the sections, a triangularly shaped shoulder section positioned within each of said shoulder portions of the coat with their base sidesfacin outward and flush with the edges of said sections defining the upper halves of said armhole open ings, said shoulder sections having the ends of said' fasteners, stitches securing the endsj of the their base sideslocated at diametrically opposite I base sides of said shoulder sections to the iiihei faces of the back and'front sections, fasteners releasably securing ":together the adjacent faces of said shoulder sections and' the shoulder portions of the front and back sections on opposite sides of 'saidfirst-mentioned fasten'ersysleeves having top openings conforming in size to the size of the armhole openings, stitches securing the lower halves of the material of said sleeves definsections, and stitches securing the upper halves of the material of said sleeves defining their top openings to the base sides of said shoulder sections, and shoulder pads secured to the bottom faces of said shoulder sections;

3. In a fitting coat having a backsection and a pair of like but opposed front sections with adjacent'side edges and adjacent shoulder portions having adjacent top edges, said sideedges and said top edges being extended in opposite directions from armhole openings formed in said back section and said front sections, fasteners releasably securing togetherthe adjacentitop edges of the sections, a triangularly shaped shoulder section positioned within each of said shoulder portions of the coat with their base side s facing outward and flush with the edges of said sections defining the upper halves of said armhole openings, said shoulder sections having the ends of their base sides located at diametrically opposite sides of the armhole openings on a-line extended horizontally across the center of said armhole openings and spaced-equally on opposite sides of said fasteners, stitches securing the ends of the base sides of said shoulder sections to the inner faces of the back and front sections, fasteners releasably securing together the adjacent faces of said shoulder sections and the shoulder portions of the front and back sections on opposite sides of said first-mentioned fasteners,' sleeves having top openings conforming insize to the size of the armhole openings, stitches securing the lower halves of the material of said sleeves defining their top openings to the materialof the front and back sections defining'their'armhole openings below the level where said firstmentioned stitches secure the endsof thebase sides of said shoulder sections to the front and said top edges beingextended in oppositefdirectionsfro'm armhole openings formed in said back section'and said-front sections, fasteners releasably securing together the adjacent top edges of the sections, a triangularly shaped shoulde'r section positioned within'each of said shoulder hrtions of the coat with their basesides facing outwardand flush with the edges of said sections defining theupper halves of said'armhole openingsfsaid shoulder 'sections having the ends of their base side's located'at diametrically opposite sides of the armhole openings on a line extended no1'1zor 1tally across the'center of said armhole o e s a h p q ally on opposite sides of said fasteners, stitches securing the ends of the base sides of said shoulder sections to the inner faces of the back and front sections, fasteners releasably securing together the adjacent faces of said shoulder sections and the shoulder portions of the front and back sections on opposite sides of said first-mentioned fasteners, sleeves having top openings conforming in size to the size of the armhole openings, stitches securing the lower halves of the material of said sleeves defining their top openings to the material of the front and back sections defining their armhole openings below the level where said first-mentioned stitches secure the ends of the base sides of said shoulder sections to the front and back sections, and stitches securing the upper halves of the material of said sleeves defining their top openings to the base sides of said shoulder sections, said second mentioned fasteners comprising complementary lines of downwardly and outwardly inclined rows of fastener elements on the adjacent faces of said shoulder sections and the shoulder portions of the front and back sections.

5; In a fitting coat having a back section and a pair of like but opposed front sections with adjacent side edges and adjacent shoulder portions having adjacent top edges, said side edges and said top edges being extended in opposite directions from armhole openings formed in said back 1 section and said front sections, fasteners releasably securing together the adjacent top edges of the sections, a triangularly shaped shoulder section positioned within each of said shoulder portions of the coat'with their base sides facin out- .ward and flush with the edges of said sections defining the upper halves of said armhole openings, said shoulder sections having the ends of their base sides located at diametrically opposite sides of the armhole openings on a line extended horizontally across the center of said armhole openings and spaced equally on opposite sides of said fasteners, stitches securing the ends of the base sides of said shoulder sections to the inner faces of the back and front sections, fasteners releasably securing together the adjacent faces' of said shoulder sections and the shoulder portions of the front and back sections on opposite sides of said first-mentioned fasteners, sleeves having top openings conforming in size to the size of the armhole openings, stitches securing the lower halves of the material of said sleeves defining their top openings to the material of the front and back sections defining their armhole openings below the level where said first-mentioned stitches secure the ends of the base sides of said shoulder sections to the front and back sections, and stitches securing the upper halves of the material of said sleeves defining their top openings to the base sides of said shoulder sections, and means releasably securing together the adjacent side edges of the front and back sections to size the fitting coat for girth.

6. In a fitting coat having a back section and a pair of like but opposed front sections with adjacent side edges and adjacent shoulder portions having adjacent top edges, said side edges and said top edges being extended in opposite directions from armhole openings formed in said back section and said front sections, fasteners releasably securing together the adjacent top edges of the sections, a triangularly shaped shoulder section positioned within each of said shoulder portions of the coat with their base sides facin outward and flush with the edges of said sections defining the upper halves of said armhole, open,- ings, saidshoulder sections having the ends of their base sides located at diametrically opposite sides of the armhole openings on a line extended horizontally across the center of said armhole openings and spaced equally on opposite sides of said fasteners, stitches securing the ends of the base sides of said shoulder sections to the inner faces of the back and front sections, fasteners releasably securing together the adjacent faces of said shoulder sections and the shoulder portions of'the front and back sections on opposite sides of said. first-mentioned fasteners, sleeves having top openings conforming in size to the size of the armhole openings, stitches securing the lower halves of the material of said sleeves defining their top openings to the material of the front and back sections defining their armhole openings below the level where said first-mentioned stitches secure the ends of the base sides of said shoulder sections to the front and back sections, and stitches securing the upper halves of the material of said sleeves defining their top openings to the base sides of said shoulder sections, slide fasteners releasably securing together the adjacent side edges of the back and front sections, vertically elongated gussets each secured along one vertical edge to the inner faces of one of the back sections or the front sections to one side of said slide fasteners, so constructed and arranged that when said slide fasteners are opened the other vertical edges of said gussets can be adjustably pinned to the other of the back sections or the front sections on the other sideof said slide fasteners.

ABE FESSLER.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the 

